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- Maybe screenshot & download pics from [here](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992491684572038)

# Casita trailer

- 2016, 17', Heritage or Liberty Deluxe
- tongue weight 365 lbs
- dry weight 2480 lbs
- 3500 lb axles
- VIN 1C9TB1718G1213577
- Rear dinette that converts into a double bed, Wet bath, bunk beds
- The A/C has a heat strip for heat (doesn't have a propane furnace)
- 16 gal freshwater tank

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## Descale water heater tank

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tApcUadZt_Q

### Supplies
- 6 gals distilled white vinegar
- PVC fill tube
	- 2-3' 3/4" PVC pipe
	- 3/4" 90° elbow
	- 3/4" Male NPT to 3/4" female slip
	- teflon tape for threads
	- **Note:** Does not need to be glued since it won't be pressurized
	- **Note:** horizontal pipe must at least go above the water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank
- Large funnel that fits into 3/4" PVC pipe

### Procedure
- Close the hot water bypass valve to bypass the hot water tank so vinegar stays in the tank
- Flush the tank for 1-2 minutes with a wand through the anode rod opening
	- To drain the tank see instructions for heating element replacement
- create a 3/4" diameter 90° PVC elbow so the tank can be filled with a funnel
	- female NPT (maybe 1/2"?) to 3/4" female slip for the anode opening
	- horizontal pipe must go above the top of water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank
- Open the tank's pressure releif valve
- Pour the vinegar and water into the tank
- when vinegar starts to come out of the PT valve close it and keep filling up the tank with the remainder of the vinegar
- Let it sit overnight (8-24 hours)
- Drain the tank and flush fro 1-2 mins with the wand again
- Brush the threads clean
- reinstall the anode with teflon tape
- Open the bypass valve
- run the hot water (e.g. kitchen sink) until vinegar smell is gone, 1-2 minutes

----
## Replace Water Heater Element & Anode Rod

- **Note:** The heating element will burn out within ***seconds*** if its turned on without any water in the tank!!

[Replace RV Electric Water Heater Element (Suburban Model)
amped79](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBwrOO1h_E0)

- Shut off city water
- Turn off the propane
- Unplug from 120v on shore power
- Turn off the water heater's power switch
- Release hot & cold water pressure in the system (e.g. kitchen sink)
- Release any pressure from the hot water tank
- Drain the tank by using a 1-1/16" socket to remove the anode rod
- Remove the flame tube
	- Small nut underneath on the right side
	- Disconnect the propane line. I've seen this done 2 different ways, from the back of the flame tube or from underneath the thingy
- Remove the heating element cap
- Disconnect the heating element's power leads
- Use a 1.5" thin walled socket to remove the heating element
	- **Note:** This might be a good time to inspect the inside of the tank for scale build up
- Install the new heating element
	- NPT threads do not require thread sealant 
- Install a new anode rod
- Test for leaks & refill the tank by hooking back up to city water and opening a hot water faucet (e.g. kitchen sink)
- Replace the heating element cap
- Test the heating element
	- Hook back up to 120v
	- Turn on the water heater's power switch
	- Turn on the hot water heater from inside the camper (electric of course)
	- **Note:** Takes 20-40 minutes for the water to heat up
- reinstall the flame tube
	- NPT threads do not require thread sealant
	- check for gas leaks by spraying soapy water on the propane fitting and turning on the propane

----
## WIP

## Tank Maintenance

**Notes**
- Tank Capacities
	- Black water: 15 gallons (10% = ~2 gal)
	- Grey water: 25 gallons
- Don't use RV toilet paper
- Don't clean with bleach
- Always fill 3/4 full before dumping (add fresh water)
- Always keep the blackwater tank 3-10% full

## Black water tank

- Water treatment options
	- Liquified RV Toilet Treatment
	- thetford aqua chem
	- Happy camper (odor free)
	- "Geo Method" - Borax + Dawn dishsoap

- Keep 2" of water above the toilete valve
	- Vapor barrier
	- Keeps valve from drying out

- TP
	- Discontinued: Walmart, Great Value, Everday Soft 2-ply, Septic safe

- Use a lot of water when flushing

- dumping
	- Make sure tank is at least 3/4 full
		- use a flashlight to look into the tank
		- add water if needed
	- Use a clear elbow at the end of the hose
	- Use slunky support		
	- after emotying, flush w/fresh water 2-3 more times
		- Close blacktank valve when flushing with freshwater
		- 5 or more gallons per flush 
	- Close blacktank valve
	- Flush hose with greywater
	- Fill to 10% and add treatment
		- Add 10% freshater (~2 gfals for a 16 gal tank)

- Maintain toilet valve with thetford toilet seal lubricant & conditioner
	
### Grey tank
- Pour dishsoap directly down the drain
- Flush the same way as black tank

---
### Freshwater Tank Cleaning Procedure (Sanitize + Flush)

1. Drain the tank completely
	- Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
	- bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
	- shower
	- outdoor sprayer
	- low-point drain
2. Mix ~1/2 cup bleach with 1–2 gallons of clean water
3. Add bleach solution to tank through the freshwater fill port using a funnel
4. Fill the tank fully with fresh water
5. Turn on pump & Run water through entire system until bleach is smelled
	- Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
	- bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
	- shower
	- outdoor sprayer
6. Let sit overnight (8–12 hours)
7. Drain the tank completely again (see early step)
8. Refill with clean water
9. Turn on pump & flush entire system until bleach smell is gone
	- Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
	- bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
	- shower
	- outdoor sprayer
10. Repeat "flush" step until all odor is removed (typically 2 full tanks)

### Towing Tips
- Check wheel temps and tire pressure at gas stops
- Breakaway switch & Breakaway cable: triggers the trailer-mounted breakaway battery to send full 12V power to the brake magnets.
- "sway bar ball plate"

## FBMP Listing
- [Link](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992491684572038)
- Gary 727-946-0538
- 604 E. Center St, Tarpon springs
- Asking $17,300, sold for $17,000
- Listing: 2016 Casita travel trailer, completely fiberglass 2400 pounds dry easy to tow   Has everything air-conditioning. Stove. Sink.  Shower and toilet     Microwave         Air conditioner has easy start for generator use     Travel trailer is ready to go camping  sleeps 4

----
## My Casita Inspection Checklist

**Note:** Some of these are invalid checks, especially having to do with power from battery as there's no invertor that could posibly power an AC and/or microwave off of a camper battery.

### Pre Checks
- [ ] Confirm VIN on title matches trailer VIN
- [ ] Check all 3 tires' DOT date and condition (cracks, dry rot, tread wear)

### LiFePO₄ Battery (% SOC - State of Charge)
- [ ] No swelling, cracks, or corrosion
- [ ] Voltage at rest: ~13.3–13.4V (100% SOC)
- [ ] 12V+ with water pump on (~6A)
- [ ] Label states
	- [ ] Built-in BMS
	- [ ] Brand/model
	- [ ] Capacity
- [ ] Lithium-compatible converter/charger  
   - Charges at 14.4–14.6V on shore power  
   - No float or equalize mode (AI check)
- [ ] Lithium-compatible DC-DC charger  
   - Charges at 14.4–14.6V while driving  
   - No float or equalize mode (AI check)
- [ ] fuse/breaker sizing for an LiFePO₄ system
	- within 7" of battery on positive cable
	- ANL or MIDI (marine-rated) sealed resettable breakers rated for 12V DC
	- 10–20% above expected load, but below wire ampacity
	- breakers mounted just outside the battery box or in it
	- Shore Power → Converter → Battery: max output + 5-10A
	- Battery → 12V Load Center: battery’s continuous discharge rating or load center max draw, whichever is lower
	- DC-DC charger: Max input/output + 5-10A
- [ ] (Optional) Battery disconnect switch 

### Trailer Lights & Battery Charging  
- [ ] Check turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and reverse lights  
- [ ] battery is charging at ~14.5V LiFePO₄, 13V+ SLA/AGM. Engine must be rev'd up!
	
### Trailer Brakes  
- [ ] Breakaway Test  
	- [ ] Pull breakaway cable; compass should detect magnet pull at wheels  
	- **Note:** Disconnect battery if working on switch for long as magnets can overheat  
- [ ] Tug Test  
	- Roll forward slowly, apply brake controller (no foot brake)  

### Test-Tow
- Get baseline temp of fridge & each hub before hitting the road
- [ ] No growling/humming from wheels (wheel bearings)
- [ ] No clunks over bumps (suspension bushings)
- [ ] Trailer tracks straight — no pull or wander
- [ ] No bouncing/sway after dips (axle/springs)
- [ ] Re-Measure temp of fridge & each hub after test drive
- [ ] No brake drum smell

### Roof, Exterior & Fiberglass (**Note:** press gently)
- [ ] Roof seams (front/rear curve) – check for cracks/spiderwebbing  
- [ ] A/C opening – check for flex, softness, bad sealant
- [ ] AC shroud — hairline cracks
- [ ] AC bolts are tight
- [ ] AC Wiring entry point sealed — silicone or dicor looks clean
- [ ] AC Soft start mounting
- [ ] Is soft start brand/model transferable?
- [ ] Roof fan vent – check for cracking, bubbling, seal failure  
- [ ] Window perimeters – look for cracks, staining, discoloration  
- [ ] Door frame & entry step – check for floor flex, softness  
- [ ] Bottom edges near stabilizers/jacks – check for gelcoat cracks, impact damage  
- [ ] Inside cabinets under windows – check for bubbling or odor  
- [ ] Tail lights & marker lights – inspect for cracks or seal gaps  
- [ ] Bathroom ceiling panel – check for swelling or softness  
- [ ] Underside near water heater – check for delam or leak residue  

### Mechanical
- [ ] Inspect axle arms — horizontal = good, tilt = sag
- [ ] Inspect awning for operation & mildew 
- [ ] check wheel bearing play (Jack up trailer)
- [x] Look under trailer for frame rust, cracks, weld issues

### AC - Interior and operation
- [ ] Startup is smooth, not a loud “THUMP” => soft start is working
- [ ] Run unit on fan and cool modes — listen for weird hums or squeals
- [ ] No yellowing/browning around vents = no heat damage

### Electrical
- [ ] Shore power (AC)
	- Disconnect battery (pwr = AC -> Convertor)
	- [ ] Test each outlet for 118–122V AC ("Baseline")
	- [ ] Load test
		- Stick probes into a trailer outlet
		- Run AC + microwave together
		- [ ] Confirm converter fan kicks on (located under a seat)
		- [ ] Confirm 113–120V at outlet
		- 108–112V marginal
		- <108V bad (stop test immediately)
- [ ] Battery Power (DC)
	- [ ] Interior lights	Main cabin & bathroom – all run on 12V
	- [ ] Water pump	Pressurizes fresh water for sinks & shower
	- [ ] Fridge control board	Fridge uses 12V for brain (even when cooling via propane or 120V)
	- [ ] Furnace blower	Runs on 12V even though heat comes from propane
	- [ ] Vent fan(s)
	- [ ] Tank level monitor	Button panel that shows battery/fresh/gray/black levels
- [ ] Flip each AC breaker with something on the circuit turned on 
- [ ] DC fuses
	- [ ] Confirm fuse amperage matches labeling
	- [ ] test continuity w/multimeter

### Plumbing
- [ ] Water heater test — electric + propane mode if available
- [ ] Drain tanks: check for cracks, odor, working valves
- [ ] Fill fresh water tank and check:
	- [ ] pump
	- [ ] faucets
	- [ ] shower
	- [ ] toilet
- [ ] Check under sinks and fixtures for leaks
- [ ] Check city water inlet (hose hookup) for leaks under pressure
- [ ] Check the poop hose

### Structure & Interior
- [ ] Walk around interior floor, check for soft spots, esp. by entry
- [ ] Look for fiberglass stress cracks near jack points, frame mounts
- [ ] Run fridge on propane — confirm cool down
- [ ] Test all interior/exterior lights, switches, fans
- [ ] Sit/press on beds and dinette — listen/feel for flex or damage
- [ ] Open/close all windows, test latches/cranks
-- [x] Open/close all cabinets, drawers, and the main door

### Hose test - Check for drips around
- [ ] windows
- [ ] roof
- [ ] AC
- [ ] light fixtures
- [ ] under beds
- [ ] ceiling corners
- [ ] inside cabinets
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