• Maybe screenshot & download pics from here

Casita trailer

• 2016, 17', Heritage or Liberty Deluxe
• tongue weight 365 lbs
• dry weight 2480 lbs
• 3500 lb axles
• VIN 1C9TB1718G1213577
• Rear dinette that converts into a double bed, Wet bath, bunk beds
• The A/C has a heat strip for heat (doesn't have a propane furnace)
• 16 gal freshwater tank

Descale water heater tank

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tApcUadZt_Q

Supplies

• 6 gals distilled white vinegar
• PVC fill tube

  • 2-3' 3/4" PVC pipe
  • 3/4" 90° elbow
  • 3/4" Male NPT to 3/4" female slip
  • teflon tape for threads
  • Note: Does not need to be glued since it won't be pressurized
  • Note: horizontal pipe must at least go above the water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank
• Large funnel that fits into 3/4" PVC pipe

Procedure

• Close the hot water bypass valve to bypass the hot water tank so vinegar stays in the tank
• Flush the tank for 1-2 minutes with a wand through the anode rod opening

  • To drain the tank see instructions for heating element replacement
• create a 3/4" diameter 90° PVC elbow so the tank can be filled with a funnel

  • female NPT (maybe 1/2"?) to 3/4" female slip for the anode opening
  • horizontal pipe must go above the top of water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank
• Open the tank's pressure releif valve
• Pour the vinegar and water into the tank
• when vinegar starts to come out of the PT valve close it and keep filling up the tank with the remainder of the vinegar
• Let it sit overnight (8-24 hours)
• Drain the tank and flush fro 1-2 mins with the wand again
• Brush the threads clean
• reinstall the anode with teflon tape
• Open the bypass valve
• run the hot water (e.g. kitchen sink) until vinegar smell is gone, 1-2 minutes

Replace Water Heater Element & Anode Rod

• Note: The heating element will burn out within seconds if its turned on without any water in the tank!!

Replace RV Electric Water Heater Element (Suburban Model) amped79

• Shut off city water
• Turn off the propane
• Unplug from 120v on shore power
• Turn off the water heater's power switch
• Release hot & cold water pressure in the system (e.g. kitchen sink)
• Release any pressure from the hot water tank
• Drain the tank by using a 1-1/16" socket to remove the anode rod
• Remove the flame tube

  • Small nut underneath on the right side
  • Disconnect the propane line. I've seen this done 2 different ways, from the back of the flame tube or from underneath the thingy
• Remove the heating element cap
• Disconnect the heating element's power leads
• Use a 1.5" thin walled socket to remove the heating element

  • Note: This might be a good time to inspect the inside of the tank for scale build up
• Install the new heating element

  • NPT threads do not require thread sealant
• Install a new anode rod
• Test for leaks & refill the tank by hooking back up to city water and opening a hot water faucet (e.g. kitchen sink)
• Replace the heating element cap
• Test the heating element

  • Hook back up to 120v
  • Turn on the water heater's power switch
  • Turn on the hot water heater from inside the camper (electric of course)
  • Note: Takes 20-40 minutes for the water to heat up
• reinstall the flame tube

  • NPT threads do not require thread sealant
  • check for gas leaks by spraying soapy water on the propane fitting and turning on the propane

WIP

Tank Maintenance

Notes

• Tank Capacities

  • Black water: 15 gallons (10% = ~2 gal)
  • Grey water: 25 gallons
• Don't use RV toilet paper
• Don't clean with bleach
• Always fill 3/4 full before dumping (add fresh water)
• Always keep the blackwater tank 3-10% full

Black water tank

• Water treatment options

  • Liquified RV Toilet Treatment
  • thetford aqua chem
  • Happy camper (odor free)
  • "Geo Method" - Borax + Dawn dishsoap

• Keep 2" of water above the toilete valve

  • Vapor barrier
  • Keeps valve from drying out

• TP

  • Discontinued: Walmart, Great Value, Everday Soft 2-ply, Septic safe

• Use a lot of water when flushing

• dumping

  • Make sure tank is at least 3/4 full

    • use a flashlight to look into the tank
    • add water if needed
  • Use a clear elbow at the end of the hose
  • Use slunky support
  • after emotying, flush w/fresh water 2-3 more times

    • Close blacktank valve when flushing with freshwater
    • 5 or more gallons per flush
  • Close blacktank valve
  • Flush hose with greywater
  • Fill to 10% and add treatment

    • Add 10% freshater (~2 gfals for a 16 gal tank)

• Maintain toilet valve with thetford toilet seal lubricant & conditioner

Grey tank

• Pour dishsoap directly down the drain
• Flush the same way as black tank

Freshwater Tank Cleaning Procedure (Sanitize + Flush)

1. Drain the tank completely

   • Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
   • bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
   • shower
   • outdoor sprayer
   • low-point drain
2. Mix ~1/2 cup bleach with 1–2 gallons of clean water
3. Add bleach solution to tank through the freshwater fill port using a funnel
4. Fill the tank fully with fresh water
5. Turn on pump & Run water through entire system until bleach is smelled

   • Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
   • bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
   • shower
   • outdoor sprayer
6. Let sit overnight (8–12 hours)
7. Drain the tank completely again (see early step)
8. Refill with clean water
9. Turn on pump & flush entire system until bleach smell is gone

   • Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold
   • bathroom faucets - both hot and cold
   • shower
   • outdoor sprayer
10. Repeat "flush" step until all odor is removed (typically 2 full tanks)

Towing Tips

• Check wheel temps and tire pressure at gas stops
• Breakaway switch & Breakaway cable: triggers the trailer-mounted breakaway battery to send full 12V power to the brake magnets.
• "sway bar ball plate"

FBMP Listing

• Link
• Gary 727-946-0538
• 604 E. Center St, Tarpon springs
• Asking $17,300, sold for $17,000
• Listing: 2016 Casita travel trailer, completely fiberglass 2400 pounds dry easy to tow Has everything air-conditioning. Stove. Sink. Shower and toilet Microwave Air conditioner has easy start for generator use Travel trailer is ready to go camping  sleeps 4

My Casita Inspection Checklist

Note: Some of these are invalid checks, especially having to do with power from battery as there's no invertor that could posibly power an AC and/or microwave off of a camper battery.

Pre Checks

• [ ] Confirm VIN on title matches trailer VIN
• [ ] Check all 3 tires' DOT date and condition (cracks, dry rot, tread wear)

LiFePO₄ Battery (% SOC - State of Charge)

• [ ] No swelling, cracks, or corrosion
• [ ] Voltage at rest: ~13.3–13.4V (100% SOC)
• [ ] 12V+ with water pump on (~6A)
• [ ] Label states

  • [ ] Built-in BMS
  • [ ] Brand/model
  • [ ] Capacity
• [ ] Lithium-compatible converter/charger

  • Charges at 14.4–14.6V on shore power
  • No float or equalize mode (AI check)
• [ ] Lithium-compatible DC-DC charger

  • Charges at 14.4–14.6V while driving
  • No float or equalize mode (AI check)
• [ ] fuse/breaker sizing for an LiFePO₄ system

  • within 7" of battery on positive cable
  • ANL or MIDI (marine-rated) sealed resettable breakers rated for 12V DC
  • 10–20% above expected load, but below wire ampacity
  • breakers mounted just outside the battery box or in it
  • Shore Power → Converter → Battery: max output + 5-10A
  • Battery → 12V Load Center: battery’s continuous discharge rating or load center max draw, whichever is lower
  • DC-DC charger: Max input/output + 5-10A
• [ ] (Optional) Battery disconnect switch

Trailer Lights & Battery Charging

• [ ] Check turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and reverse lights
• [ ] battery is charging at ~14.5V LiFePO₄, 13V+ SLA/AGM. Engine must be rev'd up!

Trailer Brakes

• [ ] Breakaway Test

  • [ ] Pull breakaway cable; compass should detect magnet pull at wheels
  • Note: Disconnect battery if working on switch for long as magnets can overheat
• [ ] Tug Test

  • Roll forward slowly, apply brake controller (no foot brake)

Test-Tow

• Get baseline temp of fridge & each hub before hitting the road
• [ ] No growling/humming from wheels (wheel bearings)
• [ ] No clunks over bumps (suspension bushings)
• [ ] Trailer tracks straight — no pull or wander
• [ ] No bouncing/sway after dips (axle/springs)
• [ ] Re-Measure temp of fridge & each hub after test drive
• [ ] No brake drum smell

Roof, Exterior & Fiberglass ( press gently)

• [ ] Roof seams (front/rear curve) – check for cracks/spiderwebbing
• [ ] A/C opening – check for flex, softness, bad sealant
• [ ] AC shroud — hairline cracks
• [ ] AC bolts are tight
• [ ] AC Wiring entry point sealed — silicone or dicor looks clean
• [ ] AC Soft start mounting
• [ ] Is soft start brand/model transferable?
• [ ] Roof fan vent – check for cracking, bubbling, seal failure
• [ ] Window perimeters – look for cracks, staining, discoloration
• [ ] Door frame & entry step – check for floor flex, softness
• [ ] Bottom edges near stabilizers/jacks – check for gelcoat cracks, impact damage
• [ ] Inside cabinets under windows – check for bubbling or odor
• [ ] Tail lights & marker lights – inspect for cracks or seal gaps
• [ ] Bathroom ceiling panel – check for swelling or softness
• [ ] Underside near water heater – check for delam or leak residue

Mechanical

• [ ] Inspect axle arms — horizontal = good, tilt = sag
• [ ] Inspect awning for operation & mildew
• [ ] check wheel bearing play (Jack up trailer)
• [x] Look under trailer for frame rust, cracks, weld issues

AC - Interior and operation

• [ ] Startup is smooth, not a loud “THUMP” => soft start is working
• [ ] Run unit on fan and cool modes — listen for weird hums or squeals
• [ ] No yellowing/browning around vents = no heat damage

Electrical

• [ ] Shore power (AC)

  • Disconnect battery (pwr = AC -> Convertor)
  • [ ] Test each outlet for 118–122V AC ("Baseline")
  • [ ] Load test

    • Stick probes into a trailer outlet
    • Run AC + microwave together
    • [ ] Confirm converter fan kicks on (located under a seat)
    • [ ] Confirm 113–120V at outlet
    • 108–112V marginal
    • <108V bad (stop test immediately)
• [ ] Battery Power (DC)

  • [ ] Interior lights Main cabin & bathroom – all run on 12V
  • [ ] Water pump Pressurizes fresh water for sinks & shower
  • [ ] Fridge control board Fridge uses 12V for brain (even when cooling via propane or 120V)
  • [ ] Furnace blower Runs on 12V even though heat comes from propane
  • [ ] Vent fan(s)
  • [ ] Tank level monitor Button panel that shows battery/fresh/gray/black levels
• [ ] Flip each AC breaker with something on the circuit turned on
• [ ] DC fuses

  • [ ] Confirm fuse amperage matches labeling
  • [ ] test continuity w/multimeter

Plumbing

• [ ] Water heater test — electric + propane mode if available
• [ ] Drain tanks: check for cracks, odor, working valves
• [ ] Fill fresh water tank and check:

  • [ ] pump
  • [ ] faucets
  • [ ] shower
  • [ ] toilet
• [ ] Check under sinks and fixtures for leaks
• [ ] Check city water inlet (hose hookup) for leaks under pressure
• [ ] Check the poop hose

Structure & Interior

• [ ] Walk around interior floor, check for soft spots, esp. by entry
• [ ] Look for fiberglass stress cracks near jack points, frame mounts
• [ ] Run fridge on propane — confirm cool down
• [ ] Test all interior/exterior lights, switches, fans
• [ ] Sit/press on beds and dinette — listen/feel for flex or damage
• [ ] Open/close all windows, test latches/cranks -- [x] Open/close all cabinets, drawers, and the main door

Hose test - Check for drips around

• [ ] windows
• [ ] roof
• [ ] AC
• [ ] light fixtures
• [ ] under beds
• [ ] ceiling corners
• [ ] inside cabinets