- Maybe screenshot & download pics from [here](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992491684572038) # Casita trailer - 2016, 17', Heritage or Liberty Deluxe - tongue weight 365 lbs - dry weight 2480 lbs - 3500 lb axles - VIN 1C9TB1718G1213577 - Rear dinette that converts into a double bed, Wet bath, bunk beds - The A/C has a heat strip for heat (doesn't have a propane furnace) - 16 gal freshwater tank ---- ## Descale water heater tank https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tApcUadZt_Q ### Supplies - 6 gals distilled white vinegar - PVC fill tube - 2-3' 3/4" PVC pipe - 3/4" 90° elbow - 3/4" Male NPT to 3/4" female slip - teflon tape for threads - **Note:** Does not need to be glued since it won't be pressurized - **Note:** horizontal pipe must at least go above the water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank - Large funnel that fits into 3/4" PVC pipe ### Procedure - Close the hot water bypass valve to bypass the hot water tank so vinegar stays in the tank - Flush the tank for 1-2 minutes with a wand through the anode rod opening - To drain the tank see instructions for heating element replacement - create a 3/4" diameter 90° PVC elbow so the tank can be filled with a funnel - female NPT (maybe 1/2"?) to 3/4" female slip for the anode opening - horizontal pipe must go above the top of water heater's tank but the longer it is, the faster you can fill up the tank - Open the tank's pressure releif valve - Pour the vinegar and water into the tank - when vinegar starts to come out of the PT valve close it and keep filling up the tank with the remainder of the vinegar - Let it sit overnight (8-24 hours) - Drain the tank and flush fro 1-2 mins with the wand again - Brush the threads clean - reinstall the anode with teflon tape - Open the bypass valve - run the hot water (e.g. kitchen sink) until vinegar smell is gone, 1-2 minutes ---- ## Replace Water Heater Element & Anode Rod - **Note:** The heating element will burn out within ***seconds*** if its turned on without any water in the tank!! [Replace RV Electric Water Heater Element (Suburban Model) amped79](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBwrOO1h_E0) - Shut off city water - Turn off the propane - Unplug from 120v on shore power - Turn off the water heater's power switch - Release hot & cold water pressure in the system (e.g. kitchen sink) - Release any pressure from the hot water tank - Drain the tank by using a 1-1/16" socket to remove the anode rod - Remove the flame tube - Small nut underneath on the right side - Disconnect the propane line. I've seen this done 2 different ways, from the back of the flame tube or from underneath the thingy - Remove the heating element cap - Disconnect the heating element's power leads - Use a 1.5" thin walled socket to remove the heating element - **Note:** This might be a good time to inspect the inside of the tank for scale build up - Install the new heating element - NPT threads do not require thread sealant - Install a new anode rod - Test for leaks & refill the tank by hooking back up to city water and opening a hot water faucet (e.g. kitchen sink) - Replace the heating element cap - Test the heating element - Hook back up to 120v - Turn on the water heater's power switch - Turn on the hot water heater from inside the camper (electric of course) - **Note:** Takes 20-40 minutes for the water to heat up - reinstall the flame tube - NPT threads do not require thread sealant - check for gas leaks by spraying soapy water on the propane fitting and turning on the propane ---- ## WIP ## Tank Maintenance **Notes** - Tank Capacities - Black water: 15 gallons (10% = ~2 gal) - Grey water: 25 gallons - Don't use RV toilet paper - Don't clean with bleach - Always fill 3/4 full before dumping (add fresh water) - Always keep the blackwater tank 3-10% full ## Black water tank - Water treatment options - Liquified RV Toilet Treatment - thetford aqua chem - Happy camper (odor free) - "Geo Method" - Borax + Dawn dishsoap - Keep 2" of water above the toilete valve - Vapor barrier - Keeps valve from drying out - TP - Discontinued: Walmart, Great Value, Everday Soft 2-ply, Septic safe - Use a lot of water when flushing - dumping - Make sure tank is at least 3/4 full - use a flashlight to look into the tank - add water if needed - Use a clear elbow at the end of the hose - Use slunky support - after emotying, flush w/fresh water 2-3 more times - Close blacktank valve when flushing with freshwater - 5 or more gallons per flush - Close blacktank valve - Flush hose with greywater - Fill to 10% and add treatment - Add 10% freshater (~2 gfals for a 16 gal tank) - Maintain toilet valve with thetford toilet seal lubricant & conditioner ### Grey tank - Pour dishsoap directly down the drain - Flush the same way as black tank --- ### Freshwater Tank Cleaning Procedure (Sanitize + Flush) 1. Drain the tank completely - Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold - bathroom faucets - both hot and cold - shower - outdoor sprayer - low-point drain 2. Mix ~1/2 cup bleach with 1–2 gallons of clean water 3. Add bleach solution to tank through the freshwater fill port using a funnel 4. Fill the tank fully with fresh water 5. Turn on pump & Run water through entire system until bleach is smelled - Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold - bathroom faucets - both hot and cold - shower - outdoor sprayer 6. Let sit overnight (8–12 hours) 7. Drain the tank completely again (see early step) 8. Refill with clean water 9. Turn on pump & flush entire system until bleach smell is gone - Kitchen faucets - both hot and cold - bathroom faucets - both hot and cold - shower - outdoor sprayer 10. Repeat "flush" step until all odor is removed (typically 2 full tanks) ### Towing Tips - Check wheel temps and tire pressure at gas stops - Breakaway switch & Breakaway cable: triggers the trailer-mounted breakaway battery to send full 12V power to the brake magnets. - "sway bar ball plate" ## FBMP Listing - [Link](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992491684572038) - Gary 727-946-0538 - 604 E. Center St, Tarpon springs - Asking $17,300, sold for $17,000 - Listing: 2016 Casita travel trailer, completely fiberglass 2400 pounds dry easy to tow Has everything air-conditioning. Stove. Sink. Shower and toilet Microwave Air conditioner has easy start for generator use Travel trailer is ready to go camping  sleeps 4 ---- ## My Casita Inspection Checklist **Note:** Some of these are invalid checks, especially having to do with power from battery as there's no invertor that could posibly power an AC and/or microwave off of a camper battery. ### Pre Checks - [ ] Confirm VIN on title matches trailer VIN - [ ] Check all 3 tires' DOT date and condition (cracks, dry rot, tread wear) ### LiFePO₄ Battery (% SOC - State of Charge) - [ ] No swelling, cracks, or corrosion - [ ] Voltage at rest: ~13.3–13.4V (100% SOC) - [ ] 12V+ with water pump on (~6A) - [ ] Label states - [ ] Built-in BMS - [ ] Brand/model - [ ] Capacity - [ ] Lithium-compatible converter/charger - Charges at 14.4–14.6V on shore power - No float or equalize mode (AI check) - [ ] Lithium-compatible DC-DC charger - Charges at 14.4–14.6V while driving - No float or equalize mode (AI check) - [ ] fuse/breaker sizing for an LiFePO₄ system - within 7" of battery on positive cable - ANL or MIDI (marine-rated) sealed resettable breakers rated for 12V DC - 10–20% above expected load, but below wire ampacity - breakers mounted just outside the battery box or in it - Shore Power → Converter → Battery: max output + 5-10A - Battery → 12V Load Center: battery’s continuous discharge rating or load center max draw, whichever is lower - DC-DC charger: Max input/output + 5-10A - [ ] (Optional) Battery disconnect switch ### Trailer Lights & Battery Charging - [ ] Check turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and reverse lights - [ ] battery is charging at ~14.5V LiFePO₄, 13V+ SLA/AGM. Engine must be rev'd up! ### Trailer Brakes - [ ] Breakaway Test - [ ] Pull breakaway cable; compass should detect magnet pull at wheels - **Note:** Disconnect battery if working on switch for long as magnets can overheat - [ ] Tug Test - Roll forward slowly, apply brake controller (no foot brake) ### Test-Tow - Get baseline temp of fridge & each hub before hitting the road - [ ] No growling/humming from wheels (wheel bearings) - [ ] No clunks over bumps (suspension bushings) - [ ] Trailer tracks straight — no pull or wander - [ ] No bouncing/sway after dips (axle/springs) - [ ] Re-Measure temp of fridge & each hub after test drive - [ ] No brake drum smell ### Roof, Exterior & Fiberglass (**Note:** press gently) - [ ] Roof seams (front/rear curve) – check for cracks/spiderwebbing - [ ] A/C opening – check for flex, softness, bad sealant - [ ] AC shroud — hairline cracks - [ ] AC bolts are tight - [ ] AC Wiring entry point sealed — silicone or dicor looks clean - [ ] AC Soft start mounting - [ ] Is soft start brand/model transferable? - [ ] Roof fan vent – check for cracking, bubbling, seal failure - [ ] Window perimeters – look for cracks, staining, discoloration - [ ] Door frame & entry step – check for floor flex, softness - [ ] Bottom edges near stabilizers/jacks – check for gelcoat cracks, impact damage - [ ] Inside cabinets under windows – check for bubbling or odor - [ ] Tail lights & marker lights – inspect for cracks or seal gaps - [ ] Bathroom ceiling panel – check for swelling or softness - [ ] Underside near water heater – check for delam or leak residue ### Mechanical - [ ] Inspect axle arms — horizontal = good, tilt = sag - [ ] Inspect awning for operation & mildew - [ ] check wheel bearing play (Jack up trailer) - [x] Look under trailer for frame rust, cracks, weld issues ### AC - Interior and operation - [ ] Startup is smooth, not a loud “THUMP” => soft start is working - [ ] Run unit on fan and cool modes — listen for weird hums or squeals - [ ] No yellowing/browning around vents = no heat damage ### Electrical - [ ] Shore power (AC) - Disconnect battery (pwr = AC -> Convertor) - [ ] Test each outlet for 118–122V AC ("Baseline") - [ ] Load test - Stick probes into a trailer outlet - Run AC + microwave together - [ ] Confirm converter fan kicks on (located under a seat) - [ ] Confirm 113–120V at outlet - 108–112V marginal - <108V bad (stop test immediately) - [ ] Battery Power (DC) - [ ] Interior lights Main cabin & bathroom – all run on 12V - [ ] Water pump Pressurizes fresh water for sinks & shower - [ ] Fridge control board Fridge uses 12V for brain (even when cooling via propane or 120V) - [ ] Furnace blower Runs on 12V even though heat comes from propane - [ ] Vent fan(s) - [ ] Tank level monitor Button panel that shows battery/fresh/gray/black levels - [ ] Flip each AC breaker with something on the circuit turned on - [ ] DC fuses - [ ] Confirm fuse amperage matches labeling - [ ] test continuity w/multimeter ### Plumbing - [ ] Water heater test — electric + propane mode if available - [ ] Drain tanks: check for cracks, odor, working valves - [ ] Fill fresh water tank and check: - [ ] pump - [ ] faucets - [ ] shower - [ ] toilet - [ ] Check under sinks and fixtures for leaks - [ ] Check city water inlet (hose hookup) for leaks under pressure - [ ] Check the poop hose ### Structure & Interior - [ ] Walk around interior floor, check for soft spots, esp. by entry - [ ] Look for fiberglass stress cracks near jack points, frame mounts - [ ] Run fridge on propane — confirm cool down - [ ] Test all interior/exterior lights, switches, fans - [ ] Sit/press on beds and dinette — listen/feel for flex or damage - [ ] Open/close all windows, test latches/cranks -- [x] Open/close all cabinets, drawers, and the main door ### Hose test - Check for drips around - [ ] windows - [ ] roof - [ ] AC - [ ] light fixtures - [ ] under beds - [ ] ceiling corners - [ ] inside cabinets